You probably own a phone that tells perfect time across any time zone with minimal upkeep. Maybe you also own a smartwatch, which also tells amazing time, tracks your heartbeat, tells you if you slept well, and tells you how many unread emails you have. Functionality-wise, you're set, but you may still be hankering after something a bit more interesting to put on your wrist, something that doesn't disturb you every time you get a text or your stocks drop in value. First of all, you'll have a big decision to make:
Should I buy a new watch, a second hand one or vintage?
In many cases this is a little the choice facing you if/when you buy a car. The difference between new and second hand is similar and come down to things like buying experience, price, warranties etc. But buying a vintage watch is similar to buying a classic car, and could be daunting. The odds are that without experience of vintage you'll buy newer; so here is a biased list to offset that deficit.

3 Reasons you shouldn't buy vintage....
Parts & Repairs
Old watches are, by their nature, old. This means through wear and tear they occasionally will break, so you'll need to get someone to look at it and find out if you need new parts. If you need new parts, it's highly likely that the machines or factories that made them may have long since been dismantled. In this scenario, you can be left scouring auction sites for bits, or maybe purchasing a donor (another vintage watch that can be harvested for parts). The more rare or unusual your watch is however, the harder it may be to find those parts. Perhaps in future 3D printing will solve this problem but it is absolutely worth considering before you buy that super quirky chronograph that seems too cheap.
Integrity
Due to the problem of getting parts, it's quite common over time for a watch to have original parts replaced with those from other watches or non-original aftermarket parts. Cobbling parts together from other watches or using non-original parts can be called 'Frankensteining'. The most valuable/expensive watch, usually called a 'NOS' (New Old Stock) is a watch that is in the same condition now as it was when it was originally made. These can be easily multiple times more expensive than something in lesser condition. Some collectors prefer to only replace parts with contemporary parts. Others do not believe that restoration work (such as case polishing or replacing the lume (luminescant parts) is permissable. Others will accept aftermarket or new parts provided it retains the original feel of the watch. Others will also quite happily mix completely different dials and cases if they feel the watch looks good, regardless of integrity. There are many schools of thought. Ultimately though it comes down to personal preference, finances and effort. Because not everyone will go to the effort of retaining a watch in or close to NOS, there's a reasonable chance of there being some degree of Frankenstein, especially if it's older. It's important to have some appreciation of how you feel about non-originality; and also to be prepared to do as much research as needed to offset the risk.
Materials and features
As technology and materials improve, the durability improves. New watches are much more resistent to withstanding drops, water, heat and light, magnetism etc. Simply put, with an older watch you need to handle it with care. You can probably go swimming with a newly bought watch that has a depth rating, but it would be unwise to even wash the dishes wearing a vintage piece, even if it is supposedly water resistant. This means you have to adjust your behaviour a little to make sure your watch is properly protected. Modern features, with engineering also tend to work a little better. Many watches include a 'Day Date' feature. On a new watch, setting this can be extremely quick and convenient. Some older movements, made when the technology was newer can be quite annoying to set. And while modern movements can often wind with the swing of a wrist, many older watches require manual winding. Something which an unprepared owner could find frustrating.
So, it sounds like there are a load of liabilities, risks and costs involved. Yeah, but....
5 Reasons you definitely should buy vintage
Style and Character
Many watch companies today are said to 'raid their back catalogue' which is a criticism of their lack of creavity leading to a need to resurrect their own older designs. There is a reason they do this though; many of the very coolest watches were designed decades ago, and still look great today. As modern companies have to focus on repeatability, sustainable supply chains and product creation governance, in the 1970s (especially) people were throwing all sorts of designs at the wall to see what stuck (and apparently also releasing the ones that didn't stick too for the fun of it). Check out Seiko's 6139 range (single sub dial chronograph) which alone had countless permutations of case shape, dial colors and configurations, often varying from factory to factory, market to market. Search for Valjoux. A company that supplied chronograph movements to multiple companies who then designed the cases, dials and hands to house them in. Dozens of companies were doing this, leading to some fantastic variants and iconic names. It's hard to imagine many of these being made today (even the simple addition of rally checks on dials and bezels seem far too rare). There's a very good chance that no-one else will have the same watch as you. As for character, the watches develop over time. Patina on dial, aging of lume, scratches, bashes and the need to interact (winding or changing the date) all give the watch personality that new pieces simply have yet to earn.
Here is a small selection of watches born in the 1970s
Relative value for money
Notwithstanding (and in all likelihood because of) the costs of servicing and parts, you can usually pick up a vintage watch at low cost compared to a modern version. Often this is because people sell before the outlay of a service (so bear that in mind) but unless you're pursuing a super rare piece, the chances are it's a much cheaper way to pick up a big name brand or a character piece. A beautiful condition vintage Seiko is probably a similar price to a new one, but with far more rarity. An Omega flightmaster from the 1960s is a stunning piece, and even in good condition, is still significantly cheaper than a new Omega chronograph. It is of course true that you need to be much more sparing on your vintage than your new, but if it's sharing wrist-time with a smart watch, then there's a great argument to have something more special for those occasions.
The connection to history
You'll literally have a piece of history on your wrist. Sometimes the watches have a story themselves, such as being used in space, having some technical first, or being worn by a particular famous figure (without necessarily a product placement deal in place). Even if it doesn't, you can transport yourself back to the conditios of the previous owner. That could be owning a quartz watch that would have cost the owner a month's salary when originally bought; or having a bright pink watch that someone must have owned during the tumultuous 70s in China. Some watches can have inscriptions and names that directly connect to specific people. For the super nerdy, even some of the components have stories as legendary designers and engineers were solving technical problems that were changing the industry. Others tell stories of various militaries tending to companies to create particular designs which were then used in real operations. With a little research you can find ample conversation topics to impress people at parties.
Sustainability
Buying and using something that has already been made is a small step towards sustainable behaviours. Even if you choose not to buy a more costly or funkily styled vintage watch, a middle of the road piece is usually comparable to a cheap mass-produced watch. So if you're likely to buy a cheaper new one that you expect to throw away in a short while because the fashions change, then purchasing a vintage watch that has already lasted for decades and could last for decades more is a much more sustainable choice.
Legacy
Once you own a vintage watch you become part of it's life. You'll be unable to throw it away. You'll have a couple of options should you decide you want to change. a: You can keep it, and build a collection (a dangerous hobby), perhaps something that can be an heirloom. b: You can sell it; the first owner probably absorbed most of the depreciation so while it's risky to invest in vintage watches, you may at least not lose much. You could spend your proceeds on a new vintage watch. c: Give it to someone as a gift, and allow them to enjoy their relationship with it and form the next chapter of it's story. Then go and buy another one anyway.
Conclusion
There's a reason that the resurfaced project focuses on vintage watches, and that's because the disadvantages are far outweighed by the advantages. Vintage watches require maintenance, care and attention; and at times they are frustrating. The Swiss German poet and painter Hermann Hesse once wrote: “When you like someone, you like them in spite of their faults. When you love someone, you love them with their faults.” Granted he was talking about people, but the feeling definitely applies to owning a vintage watch.
Check out the vintage watches that have been turned to artworks here at www.resurfaced.design
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